Out in the field

I went on a four-day trip to visit the field offices of LWF, located on the opposite side of the country near the Tanzanian border. The road to the eastern side of the country was an uphill winding road. The mountains I had seen from a distance in Buja, I was now passing to the right and left. While we were on the road, my colleague tells me that this is called the “cordon de Bujumbura,” it is the road that connects the city to the outside world, Rwanda, Uganda, Tanzania. During the war, it was a very dangerous road because there was fighting in the mountains and so passing by cars would get ambushed and sometimes put on fire, he added. I listened while wondering how people made due under those circumstances.

The LWF people had insisted that I sit in the front; even tough I was the smallest person, so that I can be comfortable. Sitting in the front, however, guaranteed that I would foresee the next pothole or uneven road surface and constantly anticipate the degree of jolt it would generate, while watching the driver maneuver the car to reduce the effect. However, on the way back I barely even noticed the bumps proving that one can get used to anything.

After about 3 hours we arrived at the office in Ruyigi. I met the staff there and got a tour of the office. The program coordinator told me about the various projects and where I could help them once I come to settle. I very much appreciated his energy and could see that I would get along quite well with him. I met the rest of the staff to whom I was introduced as the new “Brad,” the new program assistant.

Later on, we drove to the office in Cankuzo. As we got in the car, I was told that we should roll up the windows because of the dust, I complied but I had no idea what was awaiting us. As we drove down on a road of clay, there was more dust than I have ever seen before. At times the dust clouds were so dense I could not see anything ahead of us. The driver, no doubt accustomed to this, seemed to be driving unbothered by the horrible view enthusiastically chatting with the person sitting in the back seat. Soon, we saw the welcome to Cankuzo sign. We had arrived, except it looked very much still like we were in the middle of nowhere. On cue with my thoughts, my colleague informs me that Cankuzo is either the least or second least developed province in Burundi. “C’est la brouse ici.” Indeed.

We arrived at the office, where the staff greeted and welcomed me warmly. After being taken to my room, to leave my bag, we went to dinner. I ate with my colleague from Buja, and two LWF members who worked in Cankuzo and Ruyigi and the driver. They were telling me stories of fieldwork, where life wasn’t as its easiest. As we were eating on the table set out in the courtyard of a small hostel, the lights went out. I didn’t mind at all. The sky lit up brilliantly. The stars and moons were shinning in the dark sky and I would have been content to stare at the sky even longer. The light however, came back shortly and we continued eating and talking until we went home for the night.

We ended up spending all four days in Cankuzo. The first two days, food was in short supply as we had the misfortune of arriving to Cankuzo at the same times as the UNDP coalition (UNDP is conducting a Truth and Reconciliation Forum in different provinces as a continuation of the peace building process.) Given that Cankuzo never receives that many visitors at once, the one decent restaurant was short on food, and when we went to take our meals we ate whatever was available. Once the group left, however, all the different protein and side dishes were available again.

On the second day at Cankuzo, I went with two LWF colleagues to visit the projects on the ground. We went down to Miruzi, one of the intervention zones of LWF. At first we visited a field of cassava, which the LWF had empowered local associations, composed of returnees, to cultivate. I very much appreciated the fact that LWF made this project locally owned so that it was only enabling vulnerable people as opposed to always providing the rations. While we were driving I also saw several schools that LWF had rehabilitated. Some of the schools in the area had become army storage places during the war and were abandoned once the war terminated.

LWF has also built villages for returnees and we stopped to visit one of them where some issues had arisen. As soon as we arrived in this village, everyone including the children made a circle around us. I noticed that a lot of the people were staring at me, probably wondering where I was from and who I was. The LWF “technicians,” those on the ground responsible for implementing the projects, greeted us. Then, the LWF coordinator talked with the people. There were several exchanges made as various people in the circle voiced their opinions and LWF members responded. There were some lighthearted moments as the group broke out in laughter. I stood there listening even though I didn’t understand anything. I noticed that there was lot of kids, that the houses here were made out of mud and that no one in the village was wearing shoes.

After we left, we stopped in an area to get some drinks and brochettes. As we were sitting on the bench, with the meat we were about to consume hanging in full flesh, and flies all around us I thought –here now I have seen the poorest part of the country. Then I considered that there were probably even poorer people out in the mountains living in straw huts. Does anyone ever reach those people?

When I asked the coordinator about the discussion he had with the people, he told me that there were issues because one of the roofs of the houses built by LWF was blown off by the wind. LWF coordinator told them it was their fault because they didn’t properly attach the roof like they did for the other houses. He had said in Kirundi: “Aren’t you guys smarter than termites? When termites build something they make sure nothing destroys it.” The villagers also had complaints about not getting paid in full by the leaders for the houses built. As an observer, it seemed to be that there was a trust built between LWF and the villagers, who voiced their opinions loudly both male and female. In my opinion, having someone like the LWF coordinator who spoke their language and talked to them as equal adults was instrumental.

I came back to Buja not only having had a good time but also much more aware of the reality on the ground. On paper a project sounds admirable and feasible, but traveling to the ground and seeing where the rubber hits the road, it’s a whole different matter. I came back with an admiration for the LWF members who live out in the field and make the projects happen. Many of them have their families in Buja or elsewhere and only return to their families on the weekend. They travel on roads that are difficult, (and this is the dry season so I can’t even imagine the conditions during the rainy season) and live in remote areas. Out in the field, however, there is a greater sense of community among the LWF team where you share most meals with you colleagues since almost no one has their family with them. Also, staying in the hotel with two colleagues I noticed how hard they work. After spending the day at work and often leaving late, if necessary they would work after dinner and/or early in the morning before breakfast.

Once LWF arranges my housing I ‘ll be heading to live in Ruyigi, where it is still a tiny town but no where near as remote as Cankuzo. I ‘ll be coming back to Buja about 30% of the time but otherwise most of my work will de done in Riyugi. For the time being, I am in Buja where I have a project to work on for a program run by the people in Ruyigi and Cankuzo. After been briefed about it, I am excited to contribute and finally have my hands full with work.